I’ve been ignoring a fever since last week, but it hasn’t stopped me from continuing to get familiar with my surroundings, including Phoenix Park, where I just spent two rainy hours.
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This may not have cured me (I almost titled this post “Wet in Dublin”. Help.), but the open space, fresh air and all the rain smells certainly made me feel better while I was there. Also: came across a large herd of deer and shot a number of exploratory pictures. These below, along with a few current impressions.
Dublin is different from anywhere else I’ve been in Europe in ways I have yet to articulate, and I like it lots. The pros, so far:
- Like most European capitals, the city is a cosmopolitan mix of old and new, but significantly more compact than what I’ve seen during my travels. As an example, Dublin’s population is about 1.2 million, while that of Paris is 2.2 million.
- Dublin is a walking city, and the bus, or the LUAS light rail, will get you anywhere you don’t feel like walking to.
- With the expected exception of the chavs, people here are polite and nice as hell.
- For once, Micron gets more attention than my hair – chihuahuas are rare around these parts, and she’s an instant hit everywhere we go.
- People like tiny Micron so much, that sometimes mustachioed old men stop in the street and ask where we got the “moose”. It makes more sense when you realize that’s actually “mouse” with an Irish accent.
- Being from LA apparently means I have met all the “famous people”, which I guess I have, so that’s fair – but still disarming and funny.
- Unexpected bonus: tons of Eastern and Central Europeans everywhere equal to 1. hearing Russian spoken almost every day since coming here and 2. Slavic groceries aplenty – even our nearby, overpriced chain grocery store, EuroSpar, carries imported Russian smetana, or sour cream.
- Speaking of which, grocery acquisition is an ongoing quest fraught with excitement, peril and revelations – one that deserves its own post, in fact.
- The weather is perfect, now that the heatwave is subsiding:
22°C is roughly 71F. Layers in July! Rain! Whee! The locals are telling me I’ll be tired of the clouds and rain soon enough, but only time will tell.
Considering the fact that I lived in LA for a straight decade and never got used to the heat, I think I’m in good shape here. Also, my mom is mailing me my rain boots, so I’ll be pretty much indestructible soon.
It’s not all raindrops on kittens, though. Obviously, this is written by an outsider with currently limited exposure, but the chief con I have encountered here is one I was aware of prior to moving, and a big one: in many ways, Ireland is the last European bastion of Catholicism (more so than Italy, home of the Vatican), which makes for restricted reproductive rights and significant amounts of homophobia. The general political environment is thus understandably heated, but people get involved and care about legislation, hopefully with some real progress to follow soon. I guess I’ll have time to learn more about all this in the coming months – I’d like to stay a while. For now, I’m adjusting to all the new rhythms, getting back to work and leaving you with more rain-misted photos from my walk until the next time.
My street.
Deer! Click for a closer look. I felt like an utter creep photographing them from the shadows; must remember to bring a zoom lens next time.
Red Graffiti says, “DON’T THWART!”
Boop.
Lovely photos. Once again, thank you for inspiring me to return to nature.
Hexel
The yellow flower looks a lot like Ragwort, which is poisonous, the old custom here always used to be if you found some to pull it out and leave it in the middle of the road/path to dry up and die without being able to seed itself.
Horses in particular have a habit of eating it and dying. (Sheep can cope with a little, although the poisons are cumulative and persistent in their systems.)
/ random comment.
When I was younger I lived on the Isle Of Man, right near you right now, it was very quaint, but incredibly magical. The Island was filled with superstition and ancient customs. But I recommend a visit just to see some of the non christian viewpoints the Island held onto for millenium. They burnt a viking ship and set it out to see in mid summer, they had bonfires on the beaches, and left cream out for the fey, it was a jolting experience at 8 years old :).
Related to your photos of the deer, I’d like to recommend that once you’re more settled you might want to go on a road trip to south Ireland.. there are wild horses! My sister has a great story about how when she was there meeting our family with my parents, my father managed to upset a wild stallion which resulted in them being chased up a road for 5 miles. She took some pictures out of the back of the car while they were being chased and they’re incredible!
I think you’ll find south Ireland really beautiful, and I’m sure you would have many opportunities to take some truly stunning photos.
You might enjoy this book, it’s a touch long, but very interesting.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Chavs-The-Demonization-Working-Class/dp/1844678644/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374864345&sr=8-1&keywords=chavs+the+demonization+of+the+working+class
Thanks, Hexelroo! This apartment is so close to this gorgeous, enormous park, that I think I might take up walking there every day, or at least several times per week. Looking forward to seeing/hearing more about your return to nature, as well.
Simon, ruh-roh! I had no idea. Just googled it, looks verrry similar. I’ll stay away from chewing it in the future, thanks!
Emi and SaintVictoria, I’d love to spend some time exploring Ireland – I’ve heard so many good things. Hopefully we’ll get to do just that, and Isle of Man sounds (and looks, from what Google has to offer) magical indeed. Wonder if they’ve got more viking ships sitting around!
Den, just seeing this comment now – I’ll take a look, thank you!
You made it! Well done on the three point landing… I’m sure after you are settled in, it’s only a matter of summoning a few elder gods from a nearby water source, and you will have those Catholics whipped into shape in no time ;) ! In the meantime, Miro can be the local celebrity while you catch up on your eldritch powers…
It’s the sort of thing I figured one should know in case that little dog of yours decides to chew on some. Not likely, I grant you, but.
*drools*
that’s like my dream environment. i’ve had more than my fill of sunny florida days.
If chavs ever get you down, just start singing Moon Chavs in your head and think of all the utopian possibilities.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xo2A_YXarUM
You have krapiva there! Haven’t seen it for a long time. Did you know that you can make a soup with krapiva? My nanny was making it when we lived in our country house in summer.
I never gave you congrats on the move, so, let me start there! What a fun adventure it sounds like it has been so far! I’m interested in hearing about the grocery situation.
It sounds quite lovely there, except maybe the homophobia part. Yeah. I wouldn’t do too well there regarding that, but, otherwise, lovely!
It’s really great to hear someone from outside of Ireland’s perspective on our country! I live in Dublin, I’ll make sure to say hi if I happen across you wandering around the city!
I’m glad you are enjoying the weather – I’m not a fan of the heat myself and I’m looking forward to jackets/jumpers and comfy socks again.
Emma, Please do! Happy to be getting decent feedback from locals about my posts – it’s so hard to gauge when one is coming across as a foreign ignoramus online. And it looks like the weather is turning in our favor, now.
It’s lovely to read of your experiences and perspective of Ireland. Brought me joy when I learnt that you decided on making Kilmainham your home for now, a good decision there. My aunt lives just down the road in Inchicore, handy indeed with Phoenix Park round the corner. I’m originally from Enniscorthy, Wexford though I now live in the south of England. An experience you may want to try come the summer months is getting the train down south to Wexford and hitting some of the sandy beaches particularly Curra Cloe :) The route is wonderfully scenic climbing up the Wicklow mountains and coastal rail lines near Bray. Hope you and Gasper enjoy the rest of your time in Ireland. What next? I’m curious :p
We haven’t seen Wexford yet – that sounds like a delightful idea for a warm Spring or Summer weekend – thank you for the suggestion!
After Ireland, we’ll be heading back to Northern California – I’m not completely thrilled about that, actually, as I really love it here, but career-wise Cali’s the best place for us. For the next few years, anyway! After that, we’ll see.